Chanko: Unique Japanese Food Where Elvis Once Roamed
Diner dining from the 1950s is alive and well on Florida Ave, albeit with a few changes. This modular building, where urban legend has it that Elvis Presley ate when visiting Tampa, now serves up high-end Asian grub. Chanko, a homestyle Japanese restaurant, has maintained the diner aesthetic with its rounded chrome exterior walls and dimly lit interior, slathered with Asian décor accented by red walls and black and red ceiling. Pop Japanese music plays in the background but is kept at a reasonable level. We did not hear any Elvis hits, but the spots where booth-sized jukeboxes were once plugged in are still evident. Round upholstered stools line the counter, and booths and tables line the walls. Yep, still a diner!
Service is mildly impersonal. There’s no greet-and-seat here, and no uniform-wearing soda jerks behind the counter like Elvis might have seen. Self-service kiosks have replaced the old cash register, and Darumas (Japanese dolls) sit where coffee machines once roamed. We order on the tablet and pay with our phone as chefs peer through the small kitchen window. It’s not off-putting, just different from what diner life once was. It fits right in with the eclectic and boho feel of Seminole Heights. It’s a perfect neighborhood spot with a casual atmosphere; most customers look like locals. The menu comes from the school of doing a few unique things well and offering them reasonably priced. The simple menu is divided into 3 sections: Okonomiyaki, Rice Plates, and Japanese Curry.
The star of the menu is Hiroshima Style Okonomiyaki, Oko for short, a savory Japanese pan-fried crepe- they call it a pancake- dish cooked on a teppan (steel flattop) stacked on a base of yakisoba noodles and paired with cabbage, leeks, bean sprouts, fried egg, furikake, seaweed flakes (aonoriko), tempura crisps, house okonomi sauce, and Kewpie Japanese Mayo. Wow, it’s a stack! Customers choose from four styles to start and add one of eight proteins. It’s unfortunate that food is served in plastic bowls, which do not allow for the beautiful profile this dish could show on a plate. We order the shrimp topper, and it ain’t no hound dog. The combination of flavors and textures of the okonomi sauce and mayo and the crunch from the tempura on those firm shrimp brings on some burnin’ love.
The next act of this culinary Japanese rockabilly is a pork belly rice plate. Six thick slices of panko fried pork topped with delicious Chanko sauce, sitting on a bed of white sticky rice with a side of Tiger slaw. Shredded cabbage and carrots with sweet pickled poblano to add some kick make up the slaw. The accompanying pickle is a daikon, but it looks more like a lemon slice since the radish is dyed yellow. It’s tasty. Rice plates come with a choice of 3 heat levels, and Chanko is the lowest. It adds more of a tang than heat, and it is delicious.
Japanese Curry is served on a bed of white rice, egg, and pickles. The roux-based curry mix with optional chunky vegetables is served separately, and customers pick their heat level. The turmeric, cumin, and other spices would make Elvis put down his peanut butter and banana sandwich. You really can’t go wrong here with the eight choices of protein to top the mix. I recommend chicken katsu, thin fillets of chicken fried to a golden brown and sliced.
There are lots of fast-casual restaurants popping up in Tampa. The difference here is the next-level food quality, the unique offerings on the menu, and the fun/historic surroundings while you eat.
Chanko offers a robust online ordering take-out service, outdoor dining, and low prices for these sized portions. They have an interesting selection of wine and sake and an Asian-inspired beer list. The operation is cashless, the service is pretty speedy, and the staff is very friendly. There is ample parking, and they are open daily for dinner and on Wednesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.
With new restaurants seemingly opening every five minutes, I find myself looking for unique dining experiences. This was a good one! It’s inexpensive dining simplified. I’m a history buff and a foodie; this place struck all of my good-feels nerves. If you sit quietly and listen carefully, you may hear echoes of “Are You Lonesome Tonight?”
Chanko 4603 N Florida Avenue, Tampa, Florida 33603. 813-770-7306