Tampa food blogger — The Pearl's Oyster Room, where selections are shucked and plated

My crew and I were looking for a new gem on Water Street and decided on The Pearl. It is one of the newer eateries in the Channelside District, gaining accolades in this fashionable neighborhood. As the name “Pearl” hints, it specializes in oysters and sports a chef-driven gastropub menu. House-made pies are also a claim to fame here.

A modern, comfortable interior with Art Deco and nautical accents greets us. The crowd is a mix of late Millennials and early Gen Z’ers (20s and 30s), most dressed to take on nightlife around Water Street. The semi-circular bar by the front door is warmly lit and crowded, and the Oyster “room” is tucked in the back corner between the bar and the main dining room, where staff peer over a counter stuffed with ice and oysters as they shuck away.

There’s a fun take on craft cocktails, with names like Sun Will Come Out Amaro, a tequila-based mix with an Amaro (an Italian herbal liqueur with a bitter-sweet finish) kicker, and Bourbon, Bacon, Beautiful, which starts with bacon fat-washed bourbon and pops in some sweet maple, served with a (you guessed it) a slice of bacon. Pearl also offers a decent selection of rotating draft beers and a cross-section of wine glasses and bottles.

Oysters and pie aside, the main menu is cliché. In this day of over-the-top specialty dishes in high-end restaurants, items like shrimp and grits, sea scallops, hanger steak, and Gulf snapper look commonplace. This is where they need their their A-game.

Since oysters are a featured menu item, it’s odd that there are only three options: cold oysters on the half shell and two hot selections, baked N’awlins style and fried. But that’s where we start.

N’awlins oysters come with a warning from the server about potential extreme heat from cayenne pepper. So, we expect the bites will melt our lips off when we order them (but they can’t scare us). Surprisingly, they are just right and need no chaser to put out mouthfires. The baked oysters are served on the half-shell with a gooey, stringy cheese topping in a pool of buttery sauce with a slight cayenne finish. A hunk of French bread comes with the plate to sop up the leftovers.

Fried oysters are even better. They are coated in a beer batter, fried to a medium brown, and served with sweet chili relish. That crunchy blanket covering the fat mollusk, topped with a sprinkle of pickled relish to add a hint of sweetness, was delectable.

Old Fashioned Deviled Eggs come with a fun presentation on a chicken-shaped egg scale.

We finish up appetizers with Old Fashioned Deviled Eggs. It’s a fun, albeit kitschy, presentation: four egg halves, overfilled with piped filling, sit on a platter with a chicken-shaped egg scale on it. The eggs are standard a mayo-mustard-relish blend garnished with paprika and chives, but the serving tray makes them remarkable.

The entrée menu comprises nine items, five of which are seafood. We order a cross-section of goodies.

Sea Scallops are served in a swirl of corn purée and lemon chili vinaigrette, topped with roasted tomatoes, charred green beans, and greens. The medium-sized golden medallions are firm and fresh. The corn puree and vinaigrette show are a delish combination and show the chef-driven magic. It’s a simple dish refined by creativity.

Here, shrimp and grits are prepared with kielbasa instead of traditional bacon. Poblanos spice up the mix in a peppery sauce dotted with celery and parsley, topping a pile of soft Gouda grits in a large bowl. The savory, spicy sauce and perfectly cooked shrimp ring up another win.

Boneless Braised Short Rib, with horseradish mashed potatoes, glazed root medley, with an ale reduction.

Pearl’s Braised Short rib is two boneless strips of beef served atop horseradish-infused mashed potatoes with a glazed root vegetable medley in an ale reduction. The meat is stew-texture beef but not a short rib. It’s slices of chuck roast, which should be flavorful; this boneless rendition is lifeless and overcooked. The ale reduction comes to the rescue, but it’s not enough. It’s not the kitchen's best effort.

Four house-made pies are available: Snickers pie, brown sugar, pumpkin spice, and Dutch Apple. After ordering the apple pie, we were disappointed when our server returns and tells us they sold out. We substitute the menu-added blueberry pie and make it a la mode. The crust is uber-flakey, and the ice cream is divine, but the blueberry filling … well... meh. I’ll go back and try the Dutch Apple soon!

Though the selections here are common, the execution is solid. It’s where the “chef-driven” comes in. The Pearl is open every day for lunch and dinner. Hours vary. Service is professional and friendly, food arrives in a reasonable time, and the noise level is moderate, allowing for conversation across the table. Reservations are recommended and may be made online. The dress code is bar-casual, and prices are surprisingly moderate for this part of town. Parking around Water Street is a challenge, so consider alternatives.

As Water Street grows, there will be many dining options. Try The Pearl for a casual scene with a pub feel and an elevated, chef-inspired menu.

The Pearl is located on the ground level of the mixed-use Heron Building at the corner of Water Street and Channelside Drive.

The Pearl 823 Water St. Suite C-100
Tampa, FL 33602 813.709.7776

Hours: Saturday, 10 AM- 11 PM; Sunday, 10 AM- 9 PM; Monday – Friday, 11:30 AM – 10 PM

Shuckin’ at The Pearl- A Gem on Water Street

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