Best of the Wurst: Tampa’s Schiller’s is Ready for Octoberfest
Officially, Oktoberfest in Munich starts on the Saturday after September 15 and runs through the first Sunday of October. But nothing says you have to stick to their schedule! For many, any time in the fall is the right time.
If you are ready for brats and beer, Schiller’s German Delicatessen is a one-stop shop for everything Octoberfest. Schiller’s has been around 70 years old and has amassed a loyal following, and it’s easy to see why. Their sandwiches, meats, cheeses, and beer are all Bavarian-influenced and are prepared the old-fashioned way. Things are done low and slow here. Each sandwich gets special attention and is made from scratch, starting with the deli slicer and continuing with the toasting of the bread on the butter-topped flat top. Now owned and operated by Elisabeth Trunk and assisted by her grandson Eben, it has been at this El Prado location for 30 years.
I’m here to explore the world of wursts (German sausages). Elisabeth greets me at the order counter with her charming smile, soft voice, and wonderful German accent and explains some of the sausage differences.
Weisswurst (literally white sausage) is cooked in a pot of hot, salty water, the traditional Bavarian way. They are actually just being reheated since they come from production already cooked. It’s not much to look at as a slightly greyish sausage, but the flavor is good. It is the mildest wurst in the lineup. The delicate flavor has hints of parsley, lemon, mace, and cardamom. It’s made from finely ground veal and pork back bacon, giving it a soft, smooth texture. The casing is firm and snappy, and that sweet and spicy mustard adds a nice kick. I order this plate with a side of cole slaw. The mix of shredded cabbage and carrots in a mayo-based dressing is creamy, but the salad itself is over-salted.
Schiller’s Bratwurst, the crown jewel in many Oktoberfest celebrations, is cooked on the griddle until it is firm and crispy. The lunch plate has 2 of those nicely browned sausages served with some Schaller & Weber sweet and spicy mustard. Biting into the sausage reveals a delicious mildly spiced pork stuffing with a pepper and coriander lean. The salty meat mixed with that sweet and spicy mustard is lip-smacking German goodness. While the brat is delicious, the star of the plate is the German-style potato salad. Diced cooked potatoes are swimming in a warm vinegar-based dressing and topped with bits of crispy bacon; it is a signature dish at the eatery. It is a stellar rendition.
Knackwurst, the shorter, chubbier cousin of Bratwurst and sometimes called knockwurst, is available boiled or grilled. I choose grilled to give it that extra crunch when I bite in. The “knack” in the name comes from knacken (to crack) in German, and this one snaps! Bratwurst is made of finely minced pork and beef and wrapped in a sausage casing. Knackwurst sausage is made mainly of pork and veal and is flavored with garlic, and has a reddish-orange tint, unlike bratwurst. Served with sauerkraut and German potato salad, it's the perfect Bavarian meal. The way to eat this sausage is with a thick slice of Knackwurst, a fork full of sauerkraut, and a taste of that German mustard. With that snap, and the full flavor of the garlic and pork, I pick this one as the wurst winner!
Fall is almost here. Ready to party? Break of the beer, brats, knacks, and football. Schiller’s has a store full of German products, from fresh meats in the deli case to dozens of European beer, candy, and other Bavarian treats. Guests are treated like family here, and prices are reasonable. There’s plenty of free parking. They take orders over the phone for easy pick-up. Ya got to try the potato salad!
Hours: Tuesday- Friday 8 AM–5:30 PM, Saturday 8 AM–4 PM. Closed Sunday and Monday
4327 W El Prado Blvd, Tampa, FL 33629