Gamekeeper: Slightly Exotic Yet Refined
Ponzu-glazed snapper ceviche amuse bouche
With visions of Krabloonik, a recently closed restaurant in Colorado serving wild game like caribou, elk, and wild boar, we took a trip to Gamekeeper in Banner Elk. One would expect the menu to be different with a name like Gamekeeper, especially since it calls itself an adventure in fine dining and mountain cuisine. The drive down winding mountain roads to get there is beautiful. The restaurant is tucked up in the trees on a hill, with a multi-level dining deck visible from the road.
Getting to Gamekeepers on tree-lined winding roads is a beautiful venture.
Rounding a corner, the restaurant appears like an oasis in the woods up on a hill.
The vibe inside is friendly and casual. Jazz is interspersed with funk and soul lightly playing in the background. We are greeted by a young, inviting, and energetic bunch serving the front of the house.
Situated in a 1950s-era stone cottage, it was once the residence of a camp counselor for Yonahlossee, a former summer girl’s camp. Our server tells us that the owners initially intended to open a vegetarian restaurant when they converted it years ago. Still, they decided to go with a game-based menu since there was already a vegetarian restaurant in the area. The interior has more of a living room feel, with several dining rooms and a woodsy casual cabin aesthetic. The full-service bar to one side is cozy, with several stools and soft lighting, is inviting. Even if you don't go for dinner, there's a lovely deck outside the bar where you can sip a cocktail and enjoy the western mountain view. Sunsets in the fall would be spectacular.
The Gamekeeper bar is cozy and friendly
A patio is situated just outside the bar and offers a beautiful view of the western sky
The specialty drink menu includes six craft cocktails and four premium beers. The admirable wine list offers new and old-world European and domestic vintages with an excellent selection of reserves.
Bison, elk, emu, duck, and salmon are on the main menu, with some appealing vegetarian options. There’s a good variety of game, especially given the restaurant's policy of serving farm-to-table regional organic produce, eggs, cheeses, humanely farm-raised meats, and sustainable fish.
The mixed game grill starter is a sampler of the house meat selections. Bison and elk filet and sausage are served on a cast iron platter with three dipping sauces: sun-dried tomato barbecue sauce, horseradish sour cream, and stone brown honey mustard make up the trio. Each meat offering has its uniqueness, but they are all smokey and tender. The horseradish on that bison is a hero!
A beautiful ponzu-glazed snapper ceviche amuse bouche presentation is light and refreshing, preparing us for what’s to come.
Mixed Game Grill- Bison and Elk filet and sausage with three dipping sauces including sun-dried tomato barbecue sauce, horseradish sour cream, and stone brown honey mustard
Ponzu-glazed snapper ceviche amuse bouche is a tasty start.
I order Merlot braised bison short rib. It is Fred Flintstone-sized and fall-off-the-bone tender. The meat has the consistency of stewed beef in a peppery gravy and is not as gamey as I expected. The veggies and mashed potatoes make for a classic meat-and-potatoes combo.
The emu fan is taken from the top part of the wing, which our server says is most like red meat. It is sliced and served on a bed of perfectly prepared mushroom risotto and colorful vegetables in a sun-dried tomato jus. I could drink the jus as a soup!
Bison Short rib-merlot braised, sauce bordelaise, garlic mashed potatoes, carrots and squash served on a cast iron platter
Emu Fan Filet- thinly sliced grilled emu filet, mushroom, spinach, and garlic risotto, sun-dried tomato jus, carrots, and squash
Gamekeeper offers five dessert options, and we choose a classic bread pudding. It seems a natural choice since it is a 20-year family recipe and available a la mode. It is warm, spongy, sweet bread, topped with bourbon caramel sauce, vanilla ice cream and sprinkled with pecans in a sweet bowl of goodness.
Bread Pudding A La Mode- with bourbon and caramel sauce
The Gamekeeper Wine Cellar offers a broad selection of European and domestic bottles.
The entire experience is delightful from the friendly, attentive service to the food and surroundings. I’ve experienced authentic wild game on occasion, and while the offerings here are not as exotic as some, I am not disappointed. I make a note to myself to return and try the grilled elk and Pekin duck.
Although reservations are required, parties can still call if their desired time is blocked off on OpenTable or to make same-day requests. The menu changes seasonally to reflect the freshest local ingredients, satisfying meat and veggie lovers. Parking is limited, and complimentary valet is available. Prices are fine-dining level.