Ash: Bene Italian Cuisine, Sorta
Foie Gras Cannoli- candied hazelnut, rhubarb syrup
In 2022, Proper House Group, renowned for innovative concepts like Rooster and the Till, Nebraska Mini Mart, unveiled its latest venture on Water Street. Ash, a 2400 sq. ft. restaurant with a 1,000 sq. ft. outdoor dining space and attached music-forward cocktail lounge called Alter Ego, opened its doors in April this year, promising a unique dining experience.
While I usually give new restaurants time to settle in, the presence of James Beard Nominee and Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand-recognized Chef Ferrell Alvarez at the helm was reason enough to make an exception.
Nestled in the heart of the booming Water Street district and located on the first floor of the Asher Building, the exterior is understated. The interior design is modern, elegant, and intimate, with the kitchen open to the dining room,
Ash Bar is simple and sophisticated, Drinks are created by veteran beverage manager John Howard.
Old Fashion- Elijah Craig Rooster Single Barrel. Lustau amontillado sherry, cherry biscotti, brown sugar, coffee
The bar at Ash is a testament to simplicity and sophistication. The 12-seat space, bathed in neon-esque lighting, features a single shelf of spirits. Here, veteran beverage manager John Howard rejects the trend of bartenders being alchemists trying to invent something new. Instead, he opts for a more accessible approach, using familiar and readily available ingredients to create high-end Italian-leaning variations on classic drinks.
The drink menu is split into four sections: non-alcoholic, aperitifs, martinis, and “spirit forward” selections. How might one Italianize an Old Fashion? At Ash, they start with Elijah Craig Rooster Single Barrel and add amontillado sherry, brown sugar, and coffee. Then, for looks and punch, they deconstruct the typical orange and cherry garnish and instead serve the drink with a biscotti (Italian cookie) with cherries in it. It was the table favorite.
Ash’s open kitchen is captained by Chef Andrew Duncan
David Madera, Sommelier and general manger at Ash
Executive Chef Andrew Duncan captains Ash's kitchen, bringing a fresh perspective to the dinner menu. The cuisine is not confined to traditional Italian dishes but is infused with fun and creativity with Italian undertones. All dishes are designed for sharing, with menu sections divided into appetizers, pasta, and main entrees.
There are times when I read restaurant menus and get lost in the intricacy and specialty of the ingredients. To some degree, that’s true here. The detail, finesse, and breadth of the ingredients that Chef Duncan uses are intricate. With phrases like amaro sabayon and cambozola celeriac espuma, even as a food blogger, I won’t usually sit with friends and Google what we are ordering. Instead, I think to myself, “Just trust the chef.” I’ll look it up later. Plus, knowledgeable staff here know their stuff. Just ask.
Crispy Artichokes- guanciale, amaro sabayon, parmesan streusel
Bits of guanciale (Italian salt-cured meat) add a bacon-esque lean.
Shima- Aji Crudo- Strips of fish nestled with kiwi fruit and dusted with pink peppercorn.
For starters, Crispy Artichokes, Shima Aji Crudo, and Fried Rabbit sound delish. The artichokes are served with guanciale, amaro sabayon, and parmesan streusel. It’s a bowl of beautifully browned artichoke hearts topped with an Italian herbal liqueur mixed in a frothy sauce and a hint of bacon from the guanciale. The crudo is thin strips of jack fish nestled with kiwi fruit and dusted with pink peppercorns sitting in a creamy sauce, and jewel-toned flowers as a garnish. It is light, refreshing, and beautifully presented.
Fried Rabbit- Calabrian chili honey, pickled onion, cambozola celeriac espuma.
The fried rabbit is Ash’s version of chicken wings. It is served with creamy celery espuma dip.
The fried rabbit took the top appetizer prize in my book. It’s Ash’s take on chicken wings. There was some hesitation at the table about ordering the bunny dish, but I love a good food adventure. Four legs are sous vide for two hours, leaving the full flavor and adding juicy tenderness. They are then dredged in a flour mix and deep-fried to a golden brown, drizzled with Calabrian chili honey, topped with pickled onion rings, and served with that creamy celery espuma dip. They are tender, sweet, and salty; the espuma gives a luscious mild celery kicker.
For pasta, we choose Malfalde, a playful noodle with ruffled, ribbon-like edges. As it hits the table, a warm, mouthwatering garlic and seafood smell consumes my nose. That wavy pasta is covered with toasted garlic, pickled ramps (a bulbous plant with a garlicky onion flavor), generous portions of Dungeness crab, and crab roe butter. I mean, you do the math: al dente noodles covered in crab and bathed in garlic butter. I need some bread to soak up the leftovers.
Malfalde pasta with toasted garlic, pickled ramps, Dungeness crab, all dancing in crab roe butter.
Pork Chop Milanese- smoked pork fat pan-fried chop dotted wit date mostarda, pickled mustard seed and apple relish, plated with with a colorful chicory salad
Entrée offerings are Flounder Francese, Pork Chop Milanese, or Braised Lamb Neck. We opt for the pork chop. The thick cut is smoked, brined, and sous vide before being breaded and fried to a dark brown in pork fat. It is topped with dots of date mostarda (an Italian sweet and spicy chutney), pickled mustard seeds, and apple relish. The mouthfeel from the juicy pork enhanced by the pork-fat fry is over the top. It’s a salty, crunchy chop mixed with the sweetness of the dates and apple, and it makes me sit back in my seat and close my eyes. The dish is served with a colorful chicory salad.
The six-item dessert menu includes variations on standards like panna cotta and Polenta Cake, as well as unique dishes like foie gras cannoli and Caramelia's mousse. Still feeling adventuresome, we order the non-standards. I mean, it’s a cannoli with foie gras—France meets Italy!
When it hits the table, the mousse looks fairly standard. It’s a bowl of Zabaione dusted with pistachio crumble. The secret is in the digging, where chunks of burnt pineapple are sitting in a Caramelia (a chocolate made with caramelized skimmed milk and butter tasting of salted caramel) chocolaty syrupy puddle at the bottom. Think chocolate-covered pineapple in a creamy, rich mousse.
Caramelia Mousse- burnt pineapple, pistachio crumble, zabaione
The magic happens when you get to the bottom with that sweet pineapple and salty caramel sauce!
Our adventure wraps up with the Foie gras cannoli: three brown shells topped with candied hazelnut and rhubarb syrup and stuffed with liver. The sweet, crunchy cannoli blends with the liver's savoriness and slight bitterness, which also delivers a fatty creaminess. While it’s not my favorite, I love the kitchen's inventiveness and willingness to take a culinary risk. Well done.
Foie Gras Cannoli topped with candied hazelnut and rhubarb syrup is a curious combination. It’s inventive and risky.
The bar offers a curated list of spirits. The adequate wine list is heavily influenced by French and Italian vintages, with a smattering of domestic bottles as well. If you are unsure, be sure to ask the informed staff, or, better yet, try the house three-pour flight “A tour through Italy.”
Going against the trend, the noise level at Ash is acceptable. Upbeat music plays in the background, but table conversation is still possible. It is an intimate dining room with no parties larger than six. The service here is concierge level: everyone is on their game. Ash is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday, with brunch served on the weekend. Reservations are strongly recommended, and Ash is cashless (credit/debit cards only). Prices are moderate. Parking in the Water Street district can be a challenge and expensive.
We did not get to see the Alter Ego lounge. The line was too long to wait. We should have booked a table in advance, but we didn’t. You should.
Want to try a fun and different take on Italian(ish) food? Ash offers a refreshing and tasty food adventure.
420 S Nebraska Ave
Tampa, FL 33602
Ash's 1,000 sq. ft. outdoor dining space is accented by comfortable seating